Fuji Neopan Acros 100 exposure and development cheat sheet

Fuji Neopan Acros 100 is one of my favourite black and white films. It is a fine grained iso 100 film similar to Kodak T-Max or Ilford Delta, but why I like Fuji Acros so much is it’s excellent (low) reciprocity failure characteristics, making it superb for long exposures.

Reciprocity

In my experience, Acros needs no exposure compensation up to 150 seconds during long exposures. After this and up to 16 minutes then an extra half stop is required. These are my times, but should you wish to go with Fuji’s recommended times then these are listed below.

Fuji Reciprocity for Neopan Acros 100
Up to 120 Secs – no exposure compensation required
120-1000 secs – give an extra half stop

Development Recipes

I do not pre soak. The pre soak stage is supposed to prepare the film and swell the gelatin for finer grain and consistency, but I have seen absolutely no difference with images that had a pre-soak or no soak at all. If you feel you must then pre-soak.

Developer Dilution Time Temp Agitation
Ilfosol 3 1 + 4 5 mins 20 degrees First 30 secs constant then 3 inversions each minute
Ilfosol 3 1 + 14 7 mins 30 secs 20 degrees as above
ID-11 Stock Solution – re-use up to 10 times. increase development time by 10% for each successive roll
6 mins 45 secs 20 degrees as above
ID-11 1 + 1 One shot 10 mins 20 degrees as above
ID-11 1 + 3 One shot 14 mins 30 secs 20 degrees as above

Stop development

I tend not to use a stop bath. I rinse for 30 seconds

Fixing

I use Ilford Rapid fixer which is a non hardening fixer. I fix for 5 mins. Invert tank for first 15 secs then 1 inversion every minute. We have soft water where I live.

Final wash

I cannot stress the importance of the final wash step. In the simplest terms, if skimp or get lazy on your final wash then your negs will be left with residues that you don’t want. You need to wash all the fixer from the gelatin as well as the anti halation dyes. If you’re left with a purplish tint on your negs then you haven’t wash anywhere near long enough for this film.

I wash for 3o mins from the tap using a gentle flow. I place a funnel in the centre of the film spiral then turn the tap on then I set the flow to run very gently so that water is just flowing over the edge of the tank.

Wetting rinse and drying

Depending on where you dry your negs you need a dust free environment. I have a purpose made drying cabinet but occasionally I hang negs in my bathroom. I run the shower for 5 mins then switch off.  This removes any dust from the air.

I empty the tank and remove the spiral. Pour a few drops of Ilford wetting agent or Photoflo into the tank and fill the tank slowly with tap water. I lower the spiral into the tank and move up and down 2 or 3 times. Leave the spiral in for around 30 secs. Transport the tank with the spiral and wetting agent to your bathroom or drying area. Remove the spiral, the film and attach the film to a clip. Dip your fingers in the wetting agent and squeegee the film gently from top to bottom. Typically, I will have a newspaper or old towel on the floor to catch any drips. Hang the film then go out and close the door very gently. If you close the door too fast you can cause a rush of air to come it. This can draw dust into the room from outside.

Scanning and printing preparation

In my experience, Acros is a wonderful emulsion but I find it to be prone to latitude neg curl more than any of the other film types. I’m not sure why this is but it is a particular pain when trying to place negs in a scanner holder. I have a workaround for this. Once the film is dry, I wind the roll back on to the spiral but in the opposite direction from whence it came off. I then take a hairdryer on a low heat and low fan setting then gently heat the film for 10-20 secs then set it aside to cool down for 5 minutes. When you unspool the film it should be flat for scanning.

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